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Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

Todos Santos

The buoys were 15ft @ 16 seconds and the idea of paddling out at a real ‘big wave’ spot was pretty intimidating. Was it going to be large? XL? XXL? I wasn’t sure what to expect but I was physically and mentally prepared to potentially surf the biggest/heaviest wavs of my life.

After all of the nervousness, excitement, research, and preparation, it turned out to be totally manageable.  It was big enough to get my heart pumping, but fully within my comfort and ability. A great first day at Todos.  Can’t ask for anything more than that!  Here a few pics I snapped + video of me on a small one.  Stoked to get back out there soon.

 

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