252782090.8dd5717.1b4eacc867e34b61beaa8809e9e19a9d
Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

Fall 2011

For a Friend

Dedicating this weekend of waves to my friend, Holger.  The story of his life would make a captivating novel: East Germany in the 1960’s, plotting to trampoline over the Berlin

Ophelia Fades

Final peaks rolling in at first light yesterday morning.

Alaia-ing

No foam. No fins.  First attempt on my 6’7″ alaia.  Photos from 9/20/11, courtesy Hurricane Maria.