Was heading up PCH Saturday morning as I saw a set roll through here. I waited to see if another came. It did. I shot it, then hopped a fence and stumbled down a cliff to surf it. A great lil local mission.
Delivery mission complete. Scott, Dylan, and I left the docks in the dark at 4am on Saturday morning and 150 miles/28 hours later arrived in Ventura Harbor. Welcome to the family, Surf is Swell Boat!
Been a fun run of South Swell in the water. Had fun trading off between my fish, mini simmons, and my longboard, all made by friend and shaper Russell Hoyte. Would rather have had Scott in the water with me but he was stuck behind the lens due to a broken ankle.
Nothing like surfing a summer spot in the dead of winter. We lucked out with some fun waves and no crowds. It was basically just Scott and I, a pro surfer, and her photog Daniel Tayenaka who happened to snap a few shots of me as well. The last three photos are all his.