Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

BC Hut Trip

For many years, my winter tradition was a powder focused road trip with my brother.  We would drive some version of Ventura, CA to SLC, to Jackson, through Montana, up

North Northeast

I always looked up to those surfers and skiers who put in that little bit of extra effort.  They were always at the right spot at the right time.  They

Surfing Martha’s Vineyard

Martha’s Vineyard is a very special place to me.  I’ve been going there since I was born and it’s where I first fell in love with the ocean and learned

La Bomba Swell

Got the van stuck, scored epic/uncrowded waves, and waited for 6+ hours to cross the border.  Pretty much a classic Baja surf trip.  

Covid Ski Trip

It was mid December and the height of the second wave of Covid.  No one was flying, most people weren’t leaving their communities or traveling, but given that I would be

Todos Santos

The buoys were 15ft @ 16 seconds and the idea of paddling out at a real ‘big wave’ spot was pretty intimidating. Was it going to be large? XL? XXL?