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Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

November 10, 2010

A Quick 6 in CA: Food

Surf Snacks

We always say, half of surfing is eating.

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It takes a lot to get here/make this happen. A 5hr

It takes a lot to get here/make this happen. A 5hr drive after work, a heavy pack, 10hrs up to basecamp, 12hrs from basecamp, up the couloir, and back down to the car. Then 5hrs home. I wouldn’t wish this upon anyone, but for some reason I absolutely love it.

New zone, new friends, novelty adventure, and my f

New zone, new friends, novelty adventure, and my first bike to ski.

Mt. Whitney 🙏

Last minute strike to Colorado to ski with my Sams

Last minute strike to Colorado to ski with my Samsara brother in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Cup is full after days like these 🙏

Cup is full after days like these 🙏

Absolutely scoring this weekend. Huge thanks to so

Absolutely scoring this weekend. Huge thanks to some new friends for the invite and to my homie Rybear for the clip 🙏❤️

Laying down a turn in untouched powder is an incre

Laying down a turn in untouched powder is an incredible feeling. It’s the essence of letting go. Just completely letting go and seeing what happens. 📷: @robfiamengo

When I look at this photo, I don’t see the bigge

When I look at this photo, I don’t see the biggest wave I’ve ever ridden. Instead, I see all of the risks that I’ve taken, the fears that I’ve overcome, and the hard mental and physical work that I’ve put in to become the man I am today. And thus, when I look at this photo, I don’t see a wave, I see someone I am proud of and that feels pretty damn good. PC: @barryziehl

May, 2023. Pit stop back home in Ventura/Ojai to d

May, 2023. Pit stop back home in Ventura/Ojai to drop off my skis, grab my surfboards, and embark on my solo journey from California to Panama in my 1985 Volkswagen van.

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