Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

Wearing nothing but a smile

Ned and I were sitting in our dimly lit kitchen at 5:00 –am, chomping on some Cheerios, reading the paper. Suddenly we hear an unknown individual fiddling with our backyard gate. I’m frozen, mid-coffee sip, thinking someone wants to steal our gingko tree. Ned has the wit to get up and confront the guy. Turns out, the burglar wore a plaid long sleeve, Buddy Holly frames, shaggy blonde hair, and a big smile. Ah, hey Andrew!

Let’s go surfing.

A beauty of a drive.

Andrew at the helm.

Mark caught the first wave.

Andrew takes a go at the left.

Hey little fella.

This is Ned coming in for a little air action.

Ned spreads the butter.

Andrew, on the final drop of the morning.

The session ended with words of wisdom from the ‘ole bloke who lives out of the pink Chrysler Valiant in the beach parking lot. “I used to come out here with no board, just body surfing, slamming into doz waves, man they would hit hard. So hard I’d stand up and find my trowzahs down to my ankles. All’s I’d be wearing was a smile on my face”.

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