Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

Fall 2011

For a Friend

Dedicating this weekend of waves to my friend, Holger.  The story of his life would make a captivating novel: East Germany in the 1960’s, plotting to trampoline over the Berlin

Ophelia Fades

Final peaks rolling in at first light yesterday morning.


No foam. No fins.  First attempt on my 6’7″ alaia.  Photos from 9/20/11, courtesy Hurricane Maria.