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Redefining what it means to be a good surfer

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Logging Hours

In work and school, one is groomed to go “above and beyond”.  This summer, we’ve taken the approach to surfing, riding 9ft+ when the time is right.  Photos from 7/2

Beach is Beach, Even in Israel

On a ten day tour of Israel, words like Gaza, Golan, and the West Bank were everywhere.   Though relevant, it can be exhausting to wrap one’s heard around the centuries

A Quick 6 in CA: Best Day Foundation

With the Best Day Foundation, literally ANYONE can surf.  They host events like this on the East and West Coasts.  At this particular wave in Ventura, I’ve seen blind, autistic,

A Quick 6 in CA: The Whips

In California, style matters.  The whips of the trip.

Who hit “fill” on the swell model?

Waves in California and we’re trailing right behind.  En route to LAX and beyond.