Nothing like surfing a summer spot in the dead of winter. We lucked out with some fun waves and no crowds. It was basically just Scott and I, a pro surfer, and her photog Daniel Tayenaka who happened to snap a few shots of me as well. The last three photos are all his.
In 2019, Klaus invited me on a trip to surf an elusive boat access wave. For whatever reason, I declined the invitation and immediately regretted it/swore to never pass up
Right now I am on a plane, heading back to CA after chasing Hurricane Teddy to the East Coast. It was an amazing mission and here is the recap. First,